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Ghana: Gold Coast to the north Saturday 27 March to Tuesday 12 April 2011 with James Lidster and Robert Ntakor as leaders.
Cost:3180 plus about £580 for flights Maximum group size: 8 participants and 2 leaders. 2 leaders will join this tour regardless of group size.
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Lying on the Gulf of Guinea along Africa's tropical western coast, Ghana is a country rich both in ancient tradition and in the history of Europe's early colonial expansion into West Africa. Today it is a vibrant colourful country stretching from the blinding white beaches of the Atlantic through dense, deep green rainforest to the open savannah of the Sahel, and one that plays host to over 750 bird species. Our tour begins amidst the lagoons of the Gold Coast, where migrant waders from Europe swell the numbers of resident waterbirds. We then move inland to the primary tropical rainforests of Kakum National Park, home to a world-famous canopy walkway that will place us on eye-level with a vast array of rainforest species, including numerous hornbills, parrots and barbets. Our tour also includes an exciting couple of days at Ankasa, an area seldom visited by birders, a trip to the far north in search of Egyptian Plover and a trek into the forest will take us to the secret home of the cave dwelling Yellow-headed Picathartes, one of Africa's most elusive birds. Elsewhere we visit the wide open spaces of Mole National Park, an essential part of any visit to Ghana, where Bateleurs float across the golden grasslands and Red-throated Bee-eaters hawk for insects in the rich woodland. Ghana has a well-deserved reputation as one of Africa's friendliest and safest countries, qualities that are still only enjoyed by a small number of tourists. Day 1: Tour starts with a flight from London to Accra. On arrival we will be met by our ground crew and transferred to our hotel for the night. Night near Accra. Day 2: After an early breakfast (an essential part of this tour to avoid the heat of the day) we will head to the Shai Hills. This mixture of savannah scrub and rocky outcrops is home to several species that we will not have chances for again during the tour. Our main targets will be White-crowned Cliff-chat, Rock Martin and Double-toothed Barbet but being our first morning in Ghana there will be plenty more to distract us. The open landscape is good for raptors, Blue-bellied Roller and both Vieillot’s and Bearded Barbets are also present. We’ll then make our way around the top of Accra and further west towards the famous forests of Kakum. On the way we will stop at the Sukomona lagoon where wintering shorebirds from the north will include such familiar species as Curlew and Marsh Sandpipers, Collared Pratincoles and Ruff, all mingling with less familiar Malachite and Pied Kingfishers, Long-tailed Cormorant and possibly Yellow-throated Longclaw. Herons and egrets abound and we’ll see Black Egrets, hopefully adopting their ‘umbrella’ feeding tactics. We may stop at Winneba plains, a site where Black-bellied Bustard is possible - if the grass is too high - and where raptors could include our first Red-necked Buzzards, Black-shouldered Kites or even an African Hobby. If time allows we will stop close to our hotel to search for African Finfoot. Night near Kakum. Days 3-4: Kakum National Park is part of a huge protected area of rainforest covering 375 square miles and the focus of our attention for the next two days. Besides the fabulous forest, Kakum is perhaps best known for its amazing aerial walkway that stretches through the forest canopy 120 feet above the ground. The forest canopy is rich in bird life and no two visits to the walkway are the same. With an ever-changing mix of mouth watering Upper Guinea forest specialities and superb African birds we could hope to see any of the following species: Congo Serpent Eagle, Red-thighed Sparrowhawk, Cassin’s Hawk Eagle, Blue-headed Wood Dove, African Grey and Red-fronted Parrots, Yellowbill, Bristle-nosed, Naked-faced and Hairy-breasted Barbets, Gabon and Fire-bellied Woodpeckers, African Emerald Cuckoo, Yellow-billed Turaco and possibly Great Blue Turacos. Hornbills are well represented and we could encounter Piping and White-crested Hornbill as well as Velvet-mantled Drongo, Black-winged and Western Black-headed Orioles, Blue Cuckoo-shrike, Violet-backed Hyliota, Ussher's Flycatcher, Yellow-browed Camaroptera, a selection of Greenbuls including Golden, White-throated, Western Bearded, Honeyguide and Icterine, Sabine’s Puffback, Preuss’s Golden-backed Weaver, Red-headed and Grey’s Malimbes and many species of Sunbird including Fraser’s, Johanna’s, Buff-throated, Olive, Blue-throated Brown, Little Green and Collared. On one afternoon we will return to the canopy as hornbills become more active as they feed before roosting. This offers our best chance of Brown-cheeked and both Black and Yellow-casqued Hornbills. The atmosphere in the afternoon can be very different from the morning and if we stay until dark we hope to hear, and possibly see, Brown Nightjar and maybe Fraser’s Eagle Owl. We’ll also be birding other areas of the park away from the canopy where we'll search for such gems as African Cuckoo-hawk, Black Sparrowhawk, White-spotted Flufftail, Rock Pratincole, Black and Rosy Bee-eaters, Cassin’s, Sabine’s and maybe Black Spinetails, Red-billed and Black Dwarf Hornbills, Blue-throated Roller, Preuss’s and White-throated Blue Swallows, Western Nicator, Purple-throated Cuckoo-shrike, Forest Robin, Forest and White-headed Wood-hoopoes, Yellow-billed and Yellow-nosed Barbets, Red-rumped and Yellow-throated Tinkerbird, Red-billed Helmet-shrike, Green Crombec, Tit-hylia and both Copper-tailed and Forest Chestnut-winged Starlings. There is still much to discover in these areas and if we are really lucky surprises may include a Yellow-footed Honeyguide or African Piculet. During the heat of the day there will be chance for a swim or relax at our hotel, which is ideal for birders. There is a Cattle Egret roost just metres from our evening checklist and a small lake close by is home to Green-backed and Squacco Herons with Nile Crocodiles lounging on the banks. A small vegetated island in the lake holds a Village Weaver colony and a few Vieillot’s Black Weavers are usually present. This concentration of ‘food’ often attracts a Shikra or African Harrier Hawk who specialise in delicately unwrapping weaver nests! There is also a small colony of Orange Weavers and we may see African Jacana, Pied and Malachite Kingfishers, African Pied Wagtail and Bar-breasted Firefinch while eating our lunch! Nights near Kakum. Day 5: After a final morning around Kakum we'll continue our journey westwards to spend two nights near Ankasa, an area of pristine tropical rainforest on the border with Ivory Coast. It is said to be one of the last homes of Chimpanzee in Ghana although they are seldom seen. Our hotel is situated over an hour from the forest, with this in mind we will have an early night in anticipation of the very long day to follow. Night near Axim. Day 6: At the time of writing only a few birding trips have been made to Ankasa but the mouth-watering list of birds includes a second chance for many of the species from Kakum along with many more new birds including African Finfoot, Crested Guineafowl, Shining Blue and Chocolate-backed Kingfishers, Rufous-sided Broadbill White-tailed Alethe, Piping Hornbill, Square-tailed Saw-wing, Yellow-bearded Greenbul, Black-capped Apalis, White-tailed Ant-Shrike, Dusky Blue and Blue-headed Crested Flycatchers, Chestnut-breasted Negrofinch, and Pale-breasted and Blackcap Illadopsis. There will be the added excitement of discovering something new in this poorly known area - Dwarf Bittern, Olive Ibis and Hartlaub’s Duck have been seen although they do not appear to be regular. In the evening we’ll stay out for some night birding with the very rare Akun Eagle Owl as the main prize but with African Wood Owl, Shelley’s Eagle Owl, Brown Nightjar, and Nkulengu Rail also possible while we may also get a sighting of an African Civet Cat Day 7: We’ll return to Ankasa in the morning, hoping to catch up on any missing species before returning towards Kakum. Our afternoon birding will be dependant on what we haven’t seen and may include another try for African Finfoot or perhaps a visit to Brenu beach road for some more open country species. Night near Kakum Day 8: After a final morning birding around Kakum our attentions will be turned towards the main target of our tour, the Yellow-headed Picathartes. Everything about this bird is special and after a long, hot walk up a forested hillside we’ll take our places and wait patiently for the star to appear. Numbers vary, but we stand a very good chance of seeing this elusive, forest species as it returns to its rocky overhang to roost. From our vantage point we’ll then make our way back downhill and to the bus, arriving at our next hotel for a late dinner and (hopefully) a celebratory drink! Night in Kumasi. Day 9: After a later breakfast we'll start our long journey north. Today is essentially a travel day as we take nearly ten hours to drive to Mole, and as we go, we’ll notice the birdlife start to change along the route as we head towards drier country. African Grey Hornbill will become the default hornbill and new raptors should include Grasshopper Buzzard and maybe Dark Chanting Goshawk. Once we reach our lodge, and while our ground crew check us into our rooms, we can head straight for the terrace, enjoy a cold drink and have our first look at the water hole as dusk approaches. Species here should include White-faced Whistling Duck, Hadada Ibis, Hamerkop, Helmeted Guineafowl, Black Crake, Broad-billed Roller and Grey-headed Kingfisher. Mammals will also be present, and although African Elephant is rare at this time of year, we’ll see Kob, Bushbuck, Waterbuck and Warthog. Olive Baboons and several species of monkey also inhabit the park. Night at Mole Days 10 – 11: We’ll have two full days exploring Mole National Park where we hope to see a good range of savannah species including Stone Partridge, Violet Turaco, Blue-bellied and Abyssinian Rollers, Red-throated Bee-eater, Brubru, Scarlet-chested and Pygmy Sunbirds and Striped Kingfisher. In the heat of the day there will be chance for a swim in the pool, easily the best place to watch raptors drifting overhead from Bateleur, Martial, Wahlberg’s and Tawny Eagles to White-headed and African White-backed Vultures. Alternatively it is possible to sit in the shade and scan the watering hole where there is a good chance of Spur-winged Goose, Saddle-billed or Woolly-necked Storks paying a visit. We'll tailor our afternoon birding to search for missing species but all manner of birds are possible including Western Banded Snake Eagle, Gabar Goshawk, Bruce’s and African Green Pigeons, Senegal Parrot, Levaillant’s Cuckoo, African Pygmy, Giant and Blue-breasted Kingfishers, White-shouldered Black Tit, Yellow White-eye, Red-shouldered and White-breasted Cuckoo Shrikes, Senegal Batis, Brubru, Yellow-crowned Gonolek, Oriole Warbler, African Paradise, Pale and Lead-coloured Flycatchers, Lavender and Orange-cheeked Waxbills, Square-tailed Drongo, Green Wood-hoopoe, Greater Honeyguide, Wilson’s Indigobird, Togo Paradise Whydah and Cinnamon-breasted Rock Bunting. If we are very lucky we may also encounter Four-banded Sandgrouse, Red-headed Lovebird, Abyssinian Ground Hornbill or Spotted Creeper while rarities seen in this area have included Rufous-rumped and Sun Larks, and Forbes’ Plover. In the evenings we'll stay out until dark to look for Greyish Eagle Owl, African Scops Owl and Northern White-faced Owl as well as Long-tailed Nightjars. In some years Standard winged Nightjars are also present. As we are in the dry season, feeding sites for Pel’s Fishing Owls should be more restricted, offering us a good chance of finding this highly desired species. Nights at Mole Days 12 – 13: After breakfast we’ll continue our journey north, stopping in Tamale for lunch and hopefully seeing Lizard Buzzard and rollers, including the stunning Blue-bellied, along the route. Our target the next day is Egyptian Plover, a species that never fails to impress. It doesn’t matter how good this species looks in photographs, nothing compares to seeing it in real life. Nights at Sira lodge. Day 14: Today is set aside for the long drive back to Kumasi. There will undoubtedly be birds along the road and we hope to be at our hotel in time for dinner and an early night in preparation for our final few days of forest birding to come. Night in Kumasi. Day 15: We start the day with an early visit to Bobiri butterfly reserve. This stretch of forest is rich in bird life and specialities may include Long-tailed Hawk, Fire-bellied Woodpecker, Fraser’s Forest and Chestnut-capped Flycatchers, Red-billed Dwarf and White-crested Hornbills, Tambourine Dove, Cassin’s Honeybird, Afep Pigeon, Purple-throated Cuckoo Shrike and both Crested and Red-headed Malimbes. After lunch in a roadside café we’ll spend the afternoon at the base of the Atewa hill range exploring some lowland farmland and scrub. Once again we should see an interesting variety of species with Klaas’s Cuckoo, Blue-headed Coucal, Yellow-billed Shrike, Common Fiscal, Simple Leaflove, Grosbeak Weaver, Black and White Mannikin and White-breasted Negrofinch all possible. Night at Koforidua Day 16: Early morning drive to Atewa hill range where we transfer to 4x4’s for the journey uphill. This site is home to one special bird – Blue-headed Bee-eater and although never present in large numbers we hope to see this species during our time there. Other species may include Narina’s Trogon, Shining Drongo, Grey Longbill, Green-tailed Bristlebill, Bioko Batis, Shrike Flycatcher, Olive Green Camaroptera, Forest Scrub Robin and Chocolate-backed Kingfisher. There is still much to be discovered in this area and during our recent visits we have seen Ayre’s Hawk Eagle, Western Bronze-naped Pigeon, Yellow-footed Honeyguide, and Sharpe’s Apalis. After lunch we’ll head to a hotel to repack and shower before making our way to the airport and our evening overnight flight to London, where the tour ends on Day 17.
E-mail or phone +44 (0)1767 262522 for availability.
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